This is a bit of history that is...pardon the pun...difficult to digest. But I LOVE that you ended with the story of Frank Chapman turning the tradition on its head for the benefit of animals. Really great article!
As someone who studies Native history, the coincidence in time between this wanton shooting of birds, the deforestation of Eastern Woodlands and destruction of other habitats, and the ethnic cleansing and genocide of its Indigenous peoples, is impossible not to notice. They all seemingly rode the same wave, peaking in the mid- to late-1800s, and suddenly ending around 1890 with words of moderation and repentance, though changed actions have been slower in coming.
Really sharp piece on the paradox baked into these dinners. The idea that something could simultaneously be about celebrating wildness while actively depleting it captures alot about 19th century American attitudes toward nature. I've always found it striking how identity built around abundace collapses the moment that abundance starts fading. The transition to the Christmas Bird Count is such a perfect bookend.
An excellent addition to your other pieces on birds and American culinary history: “When Birds Meant Food,” “To Market, To Market,” “Eating King Can,” “Luxury Dining in 1899,” and “Eating the Birds of America.”
Fascinating look at how American identity got wrapped up in exploiting wildilife abundance. The contrast between Drake's 1883 feast with 70 species and todays conservation ethic is pretty stark. I hadn't connected the Christmas Bird Count back to these side-hunt competitons but that lineage makes alot of sense, the competitive structure stayed but the values flipped. The sportsmen critiquing Drake for 'ransacking the Rockies' while simultanously organizing their own slaughter is peak gilded age cognitive dissonance.
This is a bit of history that is...pardon the pun...difficult to digest. But I LOVE that you ended with the story of Frank Chapman turning the tradition on its head for the benefit of animals. Really great article!
As someone who studies Native history, the coincidence in time between this wanton shooting of birds, the deforestation of Eastern Woodlands and destruction of other habitats, and the ethnic cleansing and genocide of its Indigenous peoples, is impossible not to notice. They all seemingly rode the same wave, peaking in the mid- to late-1800s, and suddenly ending around 1890 with words of moderation and repentance, though changed actions have been slower in coming.
Really sharp piece on the paradox baked into these dinners. The idea that something could simultaneously be about celebrating wildness while actively depleting it captures alot about 19th century American attitudes toward nature. I've always found it striking how identity built around abundace collapses the moment that abundance starts fading. The transition to the Christmas Bird Count is such a perfect bookend.
Great stuff Robert.
An excellent addition to your other pieces on birds and American culinary history: “When Birds Meant Food,” “To Market, To Market,” “Eating King Can,” “Luxury Dining in 1899,” and “Eating the Birds of America.”
Soo interesting, thank you for all the work that went into this piece!
Fascinating look at how American identity got wrapped up in exploiting wildilife abundance. The contrast between Drake's 1883 feast with 70 species and todays conservation ethic is pretty stark. I hadn't connected the Christmas Bird Count back to these side-hunt competitons but that lineage makes alot of sense, the competitive structure stayed but the values flipped. The sportsmen critiquing Drake for 'ransacking the Rockies' while simultanously organizing their own slaughter is peak gilded age cognitive dissonance.